Aeschbach WW2 Pattern German Wehrmacht & Luftwaffe Dienstuhr (Army/Airforce Service Watch) with 24 Jewel Hand Wound Swiss Made Sellita SW216 Movement and Box Sapphire Crystal - Ex Photographic Sample Reduced

£695.00 £395.00 395.00


This watch was used for promotion by the manufacturer and appeared in photographs which appear in magazines, on their website and  in other promotional material. It offers a substantial saving over the regular price but it is brand new with a full factory guarantee. Other than the possibility it may show signs of handling it is a brand new watch. 


This classic hand winding WW2 pattern "Aeschbach* military watch has a Swiss 24 Jewel Sellita 216 movement and small subsidiary dial second hand. The watch is based on the typical designs used by the German Wehrmacht and the Luftwaffe during World War II. This particular watch is based very closely on one of Aeschbach's original WW2 designs, although the original watches are now very rare and tend to fetch high prices this watch is outwardly almost indistinguishable from the factories WW2 models and is greatly improved by the upgrade to 100 m water resistance, and the addition of a shatter and scratch resistant box sapphire crystal which looks outwardly identical to the plexiglass crystal used on the original watches, also the original 15 Jewel hand-winding mechanical movement is upgraded to a 24 Jewel hand winding movement. The watch offers the benefit of retaining the original outward appearance whilst having the advantage of multiple discreet updates to improve its durability for use on a day-to-day basis.

The original WW2 watches made for the Wehrmacht, Kriegsmarine and Luftwaffe were produced by a large number of Swiss and German manufacturers some of which including Aeschbach originally founded in 1923 continue to exist to this day. Most of the watches were fairly similar and whilst the British have the Dirty Dozen collecting the German equivalents can be quite challenging due to the sheer number of suppliers at the time which comprised over 100 different manufacturers! 

A group of military watch enthusiasts have compiled a list of the manufacturers which appears on their website at this link the list seems to be almost complete no doubt they would appreciate it if anyone could fill in the few remaining gaps.

This particular watch has a solid stainless steel case made from Military Grade 316L stainless steel, subsidiary dial second hand, hacking function, black dial and luminous markings. 


  • Case Diameter: 36.5 mm exc crown, 39 mm incl crown
  • Lug to Lug 43 mm
  • Thickness 12.5 mm
  • Lug Type: Spring strap bars
  • Dial Colour: Black 

  • Case Material: 316L stainless steel
  • Caseback: 316L stainless steel

  • Crown: 316L stainless steel

  • Water Resistance: 100m / 330ft / 10 ATM
  • Movement: Hand Wound Swiss 24 Jewel Mechanical Sellita SW216 
  • Crystal: Shatter and scratch resistant sapphire box crystal with anti reflective coating *
  • Luminous Material: Luminova
  • Serial number on caseback
  • Strap: Black Leather
  • Supplied in a box
  • 24 Months Guarantee

* A lot of people ask us what are the benefits of sapphire crystal over a standard mineral crystal? The answer is that synthetic sapphire is by far the best material for watch crystals because it is very strong and also shatter and scratch-resistant, these characteristics make it very appealing to military and security personnel, police officers and people who lead active outdoor lifestyles, these groups account for over 70% of our customers. To get things into perspective we find that when clients have accidents with watches resulting in a cracked crystal over 90% usually watches with mineral glass crystals, even factoring in that we use hardened mineral crystals they still do not come close to sapphire for durability under adverse conditions. The reason that sapphire crystals are so strong is that after the sapphire glass is manufactured it is also heat-treated to remove its internal stresses—which can cause weakness—it is then made into the watch crystals and two layers of anti-reflective coating are applied, interestingly sapphire crystal is now used on the latest iPhone. Of course, sapphire crystal comes at a price hence you find that it's normally only fitted to higher-end watches. 


To wind the SW216 from an empty state to full, you'll need approximately 20 to 25 turns of the crown (most other handwound watches will need 30 to 40 turns so this movement needs significantly less). Once fully wound, the watch boasts an average power reserve of around 42 hours. It's crucial to exercise caution during the winding process, because when the locking crown is being secured it adds an additional 3 or 4 winds while it is being screwed down so this must be factored in, especially given that most handwound watches of this type lack a screw-down crown which is something we decided to add to these watches to increase the water resistance rating to 100m/330ft.

For those who wear the watch on a daily basis and wind it consistently, say, every morning, a slight variation in the number of turns will not significantly impact the overall power reserve because it will be well below the maximum of around 42 hours.

Some users have reported that approximately 15/17 turns are sufficient when winding every 24 hours, this seems logical because the watch would not need a full wind after 24 hours. Nevertheless, individual preferences may vary, and most owners tend to develop a sense of the optimal winding routine within the first few days of ownership.

Above all, it's crucial to emphasize the importance of not overwinding** the watch, which could lead to locking up issues or, worse, damage or breakage of the mainspring. Adhering to the recommended winding procedures ensures the longevity and proper functioning of the timepiece.

**To clarify, overwinding occurs when a mechanism is wound beyond its designated stopping point, posing the risk of damage or even destruction to the winding mechanism. It's important to note that overwinding is a concern primarily for manually-wound watches, not for their automatic counterparts which normally cannot be overwound.